The Wine Advocate
2015 Sauvignon Blanc, Henry Brothers Ranch
The 2015 Sauvignon Blanc displays beautiful notes of exotic melons, pineapple and citrus followed by a medium-bodied but gorgeously fruited, crisp, mineral-laced wine that exhibits terrific Sauvignon character. This is a beauty to drink now and over the next several years.
Kind’s 2014 Chardonnay from Napa is a serious grand cru style reminiscent of a Bâtard-Montrachet or Montrachet. This large-scaled effort has loads of buttery citrus, a touch of unbuttered popcorn, some apple blossom and white peach. Full-bodied, concentrated and full, this big Chardonnay demands substantial cuisine to match up with its intensity. Drink it over the next 4-5 years.
2013 Proprietary Red
The 2013 Proprietary Red is a blend of 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Cabernet Franc and the rest smaller portions of Merlot and Petit Verdot. It also tips the scales at 15.5% alcohol and like its siblings was aged 18 months in 100% new Darnajou barrels and handful of Taransaud barrels. A spectacular effort, with blueberry competing with blackberry, raspberry, dark cherries, subtle smoke, graphite and spring flowers. The wine is inky purple to the rim, full-bodied, opulent and a hedonistic tour de force. This is another stunner from this winery that seems capable of doing no wrong. Drink it over the next 15 or more years.
2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, Henry Brothers Ranch
Their 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Howell Mountain is no wimpy wine, at 15.5%. This is 91% Cabernet Sauvignon and 9% Petit Verdot aged 18 months in 100% new Darnajou barrels, which is almost identical to the élevage of the Cabernet Franc. Flirting with perfection, this wine shows wonderful floral notes intermixed with blueberry liqueur, blackberry and cassis, some graphite is present and the oak largely disguised. The wine is full-bodied, layered and multi-dimensional, with incredible intensity, superb balance and purity and a magnificent finish of close to a minute make for a prodigious effort from this Napa winery. Drink it over the next 20-25 years.
A big white, Kind’s 2013 Chardonnay possesses deep, concentrated, full-bodied flavors, lots of honeysuckle, poached pear and pineapple notes, and subtle traces of oak and hazelnuts. This stunning Chardonnay should drink well for 2-3 years. I do not know who these people are, but they knocked it out of the park with both their reds and whites.
2013 Syrah, Lampyridae Vineyard
The 2013 Syrah Lampyridae Vineyard is a compelling wine. Inky purple, with notes of violets, blueberry and blackberry liqueur, sweet tannin, a touch of toasty oak, and a full-bodied, layered, majestic mouthfeel and finish, this is absolutely outrageous. It should drink well for 25 or more years.
2013 Petite Sirah, Henry Brothers Ranch
The 2013 Petite Sirah Henry Brothers Ranch has an opaque blue/black color and gorgeous notes of creosote, charcoal, blackberries, earth and a boatload of tannin. It’s not as sexy as the 2012 Syrah, but it’s a blockbuster of massive extraction. It should drink well for 30 or 40 years.
2013 Petit Verdot, Henry Brothers Ranch
Producing a 100% Petit Verdot cuvée seems flirting with disaster in my mind, but Kind has turned out a 2013 Petit Verdot that actually makes me believe there’s more to this blending grape (that has a tendency toward rusticity) than meets the eye. This is deep, rich, black/purple with beautiful floral/blueberry notes and loads of tannin, but they’re sweet and well-integrated. The wine has a long, full-bodied finish. Would it have been better in one of their blends? Probably, but this certainly can stand on its own and it’s a top example of what Petit Verdot rarely does on its own. Drink 2017-2030.
2012 Cabernet Franc
The 2012 Cabernet Franc is a beauty, broad, flavorful, dense ruby/purple, with blueberry, blackberry fruit, camphor and forest floor notes. The wine is full-bodied, opulent and a stunning example of Cabernet Franc from Napa Valley. This is a varietal that does better and better. There are some magical sites for it and certainly Kind has found a fabulous source. Drink it over the next 10+ years.
2012 Proprietary Red
The 2012 Proprietary Red Blend is 68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc and 4% Petit Verdot, and like its two siblings was aged 18 months in 100% new Darnajou barrels (although for the Proprietary Red a handful of Taransaud barrels were used as well). The wine is a showcase wine for Napa Valley. Black as a moonless night, with blueberry, blackberry and mulberry fruit in abundance, it has full-bodied opulent texture, exquisite purity and power of presence, yet is never heavy or overbearing. This is a skyscraper-like monumental wine to drink over the next 15 or so years.
2012 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, Henry Brothers Ranch
The 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon Henry Brothers Ranch Howell Mountain Reserve blew me away. In a great, great vintage with incredible excess of high-quality wine, this stood out for its sheer complexity, stunning purity, full-bodied power, but beautiful symmetry and complex graphite, blueberry, blackberry and cassis flavors. The aromatics, which keep the oak pushed to the background, emphasizing minerality and great ripe fruit, are explosive. The wine is very full-bodied, opulent and extravagantly rich, but there is some tannin lurking under the surface. This is a tour de force in winemaking and should drink well for 15-20 years.
2012 Syrah, Lampyridae Vineyard
This winery has impressed me with the quality of what they’re doing. From their Rhône Ranger program, the 2012 Syrah Lampyridae Vineyard from Mt. Veeder is a stunning example of Syrah, with beautiful floral notes intermixed with graphite, licorice, incense, camphor, and blueberry and blackberry liqueur. It is full-bodied and opulent, with low acidity, a seamless integration of all its elements, and an incredible finish. This wine was aged 18 months in 100% new French oak, but you would never know that. This is a killer wine to drink over the next 10-12 years.
The Napa Wine Project – Kind Cellars
For David Yorgensen, the art and science of wine making is intensely personal. While never formally trained in wine making he has dedicated his life to a passionate perseverance of fine tuning his craft……